An Endless Backless Line and a Flash of Diamonds: Kate Moss Closes Demna’s First Gucci Show

An Endless Backless Line and a Flash of Diamonds: Kate Moss Closes Demna’s First Gucci Show

Milan, 27 February. In the midst of Fashion Week, one moment cut clean through the schedule: the appearance of Kate Moss closing the first Gucci show under the direction of Demna. It was less a cameo than a calculated statement — a bridge between eras.

Moss emerged in a floor-length black gown, liquid in movement and dusted with a subtle, nocturnal shimmer. The styling was unmistakably hers: undone blonde hair, a smoky eye worn like armour, elongated earrings grazing bare shoulders, and a compact rectangular clutch held with studied nonchalance. Effortless, but exact.

Kate Moss closes the first Gucci show by Demna. (Milan, 27 February 2026.) Daniele Venturelli / Getty Images for Gucci.

The focal point, however, was the gown’s plunging back — a dramatic, uninterrupted line descending to the base of the spine. There, revealed with precision, was Gucci’s most provocative signature: the G-string. Reimagined in white gold and set with diamonds, it shimmered under the stark runway lights — a small detail with seismic cultural memory.

The reference was unmistakable. Under Tom Ford in the 1990s, Gucci was redefined by a high-gloss, sexually charged aesthetic: hip-hugging trousers, unbuttoned silk shirts, and the now-iconic double-G thong that debuted in 1997. Moss not only walked that era — she embodied it, later becoming one of the house’s defining faces in the early 2000s.

More than three decades on, Demna’s decision to resurrect that emblem felt deliberate rather than nostalgic. This was not replication, but recalibration — an acknowledgment of Gucci’s most magnetic codes, sharpened for a new generation.

“I want Gucci to be a feeling,” Demna said ahead of the Autumn/Winter 2026–2027 show. With Moss’s final turn — poised, controlled, and unapologetically sensual — that feeling was already tangible.

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